Control Arm Bushing Preload, Important Information!
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Date: 2021-02-01
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Comments and reviews: 10
human
It's crazy because I was aware of the need to do this after I replaced tie rods and control arms on my '93 Taurus. The tie rod replacement went pretty well but the control arms were a curse. The support rod that connects to the control arm would not come out and had to be removed along with the control arm then I had to fight with it off the vehicle and ended up cutting the old control arm in order to free the support rod that I had to have in order to put it back together with my new control arm. It really was a nightmare and I had to have my medication adjusted and extend therapy sessions for another year but. I did finally get it all reassembled and amid all this distraction and suffering, I forgot to preload the suspension before I torqued everything to spec. I was just so relieved to get it reassembled and when I got the whells back on it and off the jack stands I started on a test drive. yeah. I got to the end of the alley ( about 30 yards ) and knew something was FUBAR. It felt like I was driving on a flat tire on the front end so I eased it back to the garage and the light bulb came on. damn. I was supposed to put weight on the front suspension before tightening every back up. Anyway. now I have to figure out the best was to set the front suspension down so there is weight on it, with the tires off because there is no way to get to stuff with the tires on. I just wonder what the best way will be without doing any damage to the front suspension? Always something I guess. My life is very different than so many of these perfect world---easy fix----clean and rust free vehicle youtube videos. It is very raw and real over here in the real world. Replacing the tie rods and control arms has been 2 full days in the garage and I am still needing to do what I mentioned above.
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It's crazy because I was aware of the need to do this after I replaced tie rods and control arms on my '93 Taurus. The tie rod replacement went pretty well but the control arms were a curse. The support rod that connects to the control arm would not come out and had to be removed along with the control arm then I had to fight with it off the vehicle and ended up cutting the old control arm in order to free the support rod that I had to have in order to put it back together with my new control arm. It really was a nightmare and I had to have my medication adjusted and extend therapy sessions for another year but. I did finally get it all reassembled and amid all this distraction and suffering, I forgot to preload the suspension before I torqued everything to spec. I was just so relieved to get it reassembled and when I got the whells back on it and off the jack stands I started on a test drive. yeah. I got to the end of the alley ( about 30 yards ) and knew something was FUBAR. It felt like I was driving on a flat tire on the front end so I eased it back to the garage and the light bulb came on. damn. I was supposed to put weight on the front suspension before tightening every back up. Anyway. now I have to figure out the best was to set the front suspension down so there is weight on it, with the tires off because there is no way to get to stuff with the tires on. I just wonder what the best way will be without doing any damage to the front suspension? Always something I guess. My life is very different than so many of these perfect world---easy fix----clean and rust free vehicle youtube videos. It is very raw and real over here in the real world. Replacing the tie rods and control arms has been 2 full days in the garage and I am still needing to do what I mentioned above.
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Abooma
When adjusting the camber on my truck's front wheels, it's a challenge because the holes the camber bolts go through are oval-shaped. I was needing the bolt to stay towards the outside of the oval but whenever I preloaded, the bolt would slip towards the inside of the oval! I ended up wedging it with a regular bolt to maintain the right position. Would it be correct to think that since the springs are original and have 455, 000, they were not capable of supporting the weight of the truck properly which caused the upper control arm to shift inward at the oval where the camber bolt goes through? Otherwise, is it correct that worn out springs and too much positive camber is what caused the lower control arm to rub a hole through the shield towards the rotor? I'm just looking for confirmation that I'm getting this down right. Thanks!
PS: what's a good torque wrench that will fit in the location and still allow for movement? The one I have is long-handled and useless in this application but I need the length to get the proper torque.
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When adjusting the camber on my truck's front wheels, it's a challenge because the holes the camber bolts go through are oval-shaped. I was needing the bolt to stay towards the outside of the oval but whenever I preloaded, the bolt would slip towards the inside of the oval! I ended up wedging it with a regular bolt to maintain the right position. Would it be correct to think that since the springs are original and have 455, 000, they were not capable of supporting the weight of the truck properly which caused the upper control arm to shift inward at the oval where the camber bolt goes through? Otherwise, is it correct that worn out springs and too much positive camber is what caused the lower control arm to rub a hole through the shield towards the rotor? I'm just looking for confirmation that I'm getting this down right. Thanks!
PS: what's a good torque wrench that will fit in the location and still allow for movement? The one I have is long-handled and useless in this application but I need the length to get the proper torque.
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Gary
I can see the importance of this, but then again if the outer portion of the bushing, the steel portion that gets pressed in is designed to spin on the rubber portion, why would this be necessary? Wouldn't it still spin if it was tightened? When you lowered that wheel, it spun but then the bolts where also loose. Tighten those bolts first, lower the wheel and see if it spins the same way. I bet it does. If you take a already tightened control arm, grab it, it will still go up and down as far as it can go fairly easy, unless they're brand new and haven't been wore in yet. In which case they would be tight, but still move the entire allowable distance. They are made to spin, so how is this a better way. am I missin something here? I've never preloaded a bushing, and never had an issue.
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I can see the importance of this, but then again if the outer portion of the bushing, the steel portion that gets pressed in is designed to spin on the rubber portion, why would this be necessary? Wouldn't it still spin if it was tightened? When you lowered that wheel, it spun but then the bolts where also loose. Tighten those bolts first, lower the wheel and see if it spins the same way. I bet it does. If you take a already tightened control arm, grab it, it will still go up and down as far as it can go fairly easy, unless they're brand new and haven't been wore in yet. In which case they would be tight, but still move the entire allowable distance. They are made to spin, so how is this a better way. am I missin something here? I've never preloaded a bushing, and never had an issue.
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PandoraPX4B
2007 Hyundai Santa Fe. Shop installed new ball joints and months later, creaking lower left control arm. Loosened the two bushings, loaded the weight onto the disc brake (not on the lower control arm, set center of axle to match opposite side, torqued to spec, put it all back together and the creaking is gone. Hopefully it stays away. Now Im wondering about the other side (since both ball joints replaced by shop.
Day later: Ack! Creak is back even after properly loading the control arm. Maybe the bushing is damaged but I see no damage.
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2007 Hyundai Santa Fe. Shop installed new ball joints and months later, creaking lower left control arm. Loosened the two bushings, loaded the weight onto the disc brake (not on the lower control arm, set center of axle to match opposite side, torqued to spec, put it all back together and the creaking is gone. Hopefully it stays away. Now Im wondering about the other side (since both ball joints replaced by shop.
Day later: Ack! Creak is back even after properly loading the control arm. Maybe the bushing is damaged but I see no damage.
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Colton
This is beautiful. Thank you. Just replaced my front shocks and when I dropped it there was zero motion. Scared me for a sec.
also, if anyone can help, as said I replaced my shocks and upper control arms. When I put the truck back on the ground the bottom toes of the tires kicked out pretty bad. Anyone have a tip? Is it alignment and thats all it needs? HELP lol
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This is beautiful. Thank you. Just replaced my front shocks and when I dropped it there was zero motion. Scared me for a sec.
also, if anyone can help, as said I replaced my shocks and upper control arms. When I put the truck back on the ground the bottom toes of the tires kicked out pretty bad. Anyone have a tip? Is it alignment and thats all it needs? HELP lol
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David
Yeah thanks for that tip! I just replace the control arms on my Grand Caravan and it's really too low to torque everything with the vehicle on the ground. So with that in mind would it be better to try to put the wheel back on and then jack up the wheel to load the suspension? And then torque everything?
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Yeah thanks for that tip! I just replace the control arms on my Grand Caravan and it's really too low to torque everything with the vehicle on the ground. So with that in mind would it be better to try to put the wheel back on and then jack up the wheel to load the suspension? And then torque everything?
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Brian
Question on preloading.
Are you able to just use a secondary jack to apply the load? Example; using the lower control arm to lift car/truck for that preload?
Also, would uneven preloads cause a vehicle to have an uneven left right bounce, almost like a single wave motion?
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Question on preloading.
Are you able to just use a secondary jack to apply the load? Example; using the lower control arm to lift car/truck for that preload?
Also, would uneven preloads cause a vehicle to have an uneven left right bounce, almost like a single wave motion?
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Polo
I have heard of certified shops not preloading the bushings, customer comes back to get them replaced again at 30k miles. This seems to be a pattern on the second gen Cadillac SRX where techs are lazy and dont preload or maybe dont know about preload.
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I have heard of certified shops not preloading the bushings, customer comes back to get them replaced again at 30k miles. This seems to be a pattern on the second gen Cadillac SRX where techs are lazy and dont preload or maybe dont know about preload.
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yakitoriPB
Just giving my input. If you have air suspension, you will need to slowly lower the vehicle onto ramps while the vehicle is running until it rises on its own accord. Once it reaches operating height. then torque them.
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Just giving my input. If you have air suspension, you will need to slowly lower the vehicle onto ramps while the vehicle is running until it rises on its own accord. Once it reaches operating height. then torque them.
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Mohamed
Thanks for the nice video, but I can't understand, isn't it the same result? because control arm will move up and down anyway, with bumps, cornering, and load.
I mean it will rotate, or am I missing something?
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Thanks for the nice video, but I can't understand, isn't it the same result? because control arm will move up and down anyway, with bumps, cornering, and load.
I mean it will rotate, or am I missing something?
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