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zakruti.com » Auto & Vehicles » South Main Auto Repair
Chevy Truck Trailer Plug Corroded Easy 7-Pin Connector Repair!

Chevy Truck Trailer Plug Corroded Easy 7-Pin Connector Repair!

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Rating: 4.0; Vote: 1
Chevy Truck Trailer Plug Corroded Easy 7-Pin Connector Repair! Channel video: South Main Auto Repair - Category: Auto & Vehicles
Date: 2026-09-04

Comments and reviews: 20


Why don't you spit some facts down in the comment section Ok! Interesting episode. I understand that to you it seems redundant but we can always use a refresher, particularly with respect to proper crimping technique.
A question I would ask is, where do you put the pointy end of your tool Every crimp-on connector I've seen is made with a longitudinal split. They're not extruded tubes. Does the split influence the orientation of your pointy end or do you yolo it
Too bad about the frame. By my thinking a truck should last at least 20 years. I imagine a 2026 model fresh off the assembly line will get you solidly into 2030 if you don't oil it.

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A generation ago, the most powerful competition for new cars was old cars still on the road. Then government demanded better fuel efficiency. Nobody should be surprised that manufacturers saved almost a thousand pounds of frame mass to improve fuel efficiency, and then made the disingenuous claim that they didn't want those old cars gone. Problem is, pollution and CO2 production is worse when cars are replaced more often. The only real winner is corporations around the planet.
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Those older GM trucks are probably worth ordering a complete new frame if they are available and replacing the rusty one. Why It's less money than a new truck that will be more troublesome than the old one and if you are not in need of the B. S. electronics new trucks are full of. life is way better.
I had no idea those 7 pin plugs came in a kit like that one does with the wires. good to know. Good job too, professional and better than new.

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I'm not a shop and I've replaced both ends of such trailer connectors before, typically I'd solder wires and use heat shrink tubing. But if this occurred on our vehicle (which it wouldn't, I'm in Arizona, I'd soak each end in a cup of vinegar overnight to dissolve the corrosion; if that didn't clean it, I'd try baking soda. Then I'd rinse off and dry.
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Why didn’t you just refuse to work on his truck You should have just told him, by fixing this connector I’m enabling you to tow with this truck and putting your life and the life of others at risk because of the condition of the frame, so I can’t fix it due to safety concerns.
Maybe the customer isn’t aware how bad his frame actually is

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With seven wires to splice, and a truck with a few months left to live, I'd be so tempted to hit the Home Depot electrical aisle, and see if I could splice each wire with a different method. Solder, butt connector, wire nut, vampire splice, Wago, crimp-on spade connectors, and of course, bare-twist the grounds together and wrap them in aluminum foil!
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The trailer connector connects to the main harness over on the drivers side frame rail. Wouldn't it be easier to just disconnect the crusty wire harness and replace with a whole new one (GM p/n 84460427) Might cost a little more, but skips all the cutting, stripping, crimping, taping, etc. And you don't have to worry about mixed wire colors.
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At a shop I used to work at we had a vendor who sold us non insulated but connectors that had a coating of solder in them, you would crimp then heat and it would flow out perfect, they changed vendors and I never found those connectors again. They were awesome (still needed heat shrink. Similar to the haisstronica stuff but requires crimping
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Frame: Dis why I dislike black undercoating products. They wouldn’t completely hide those rust holes and such, but they still sort of hide stuff with the color. Shady folks probably love them for that reason. I guess it might be easier to see where you applied too. Dunno, tried woolwax straw color on a new to me 4runner, hope it lasts.
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They don't send the right ground connector because the manufacturer knows that by the time they get to that larger wire the DIYer will need to get a beer from the fridge located near the lectrical stuff. All lectrical manufacturers know that. So I'm ready for a beer. Thanks for the great videos Mr. O. They all help us grotch mechs.
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It still amazes me, as a retired mechanic in England, how many badly rotted vehicles are still being driven over there. Here, that truck would have failed its MOT test (annual inspection) at least one year ago, if not two, and would probably have been scrapped, as it would be uneconomic to do the amount of plating and welding needed.
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Have a buddy who's mom came down to TN from the rust belt in PA with an older Ford Edge. It was having steering and shifting troubles. He took it to Maxi Muffler and a local garage I recommended to have the car looked at. Neither shop would put it on their racks. too rusted out!
She drove it home after a week here.

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So my 15 year Honda needed new headlight bulbs. It looked like the connectors were filled with dialectric grease from the factory (OEM bulbs. Should I have cleaned it out and put in fresh Clean it out and leave it bare Not do anything and just shove the new bulbs in I went with option 3 and so far everything seems ok.
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I find it crazy that fluid filming all vehicles frames is a common thing. Yet in America it really never gets done. What is wrong with us that we dont take care of our vehicles I can say the same for oil changes! People do them like a suggestion every 15, 20 thousand miles then wonder why vehicles never last!
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I can't imagine paying for early access and getting the same story.
I've watched 80 percent of your videos and find them very educational but this is same ole same ole.
You don't have to upload if ya got nuthin to say.
Well, I guess you are still better than Car Wizard.
I say this with love

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Work in RV service for over 25 years, not sure how many of these ive replaced, but ford dodge and gm use similar system and sometimes the issue is inside the plug and not visible, so we test both sides of the pin to verify issue, 99% of the time is bad,
Love the content , thanks for all you do.

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I have a daily driver, 2010 Explorer, that has been under sprayed at least every 2 years. Up here in Ontario we use salt/salts like you do in the PRNY and mine sits a little closer to the road, so the salt spray is worse. After 16 years my frame looks nothing like that (my mechanic is impressed.
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It just blows my mind how badly that generation of Chevy truck frames rust. I grew up in the rust belt---you'd see 20 year old Chevy squarebodies where the bodies were absolutely rotten with huge gaping rust holes, bed sides flapping in the breeze, but the frames were still fine
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That tag bracket with Ithaca College on it is something. I just scanned in my dad's Bachelor of Science degree from Ithaca College, dated June 9th, 1941. Dad is saying, Don't forget me. Dad made it to 97, I believe because he was just happy in life. Love and miss my dad.
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Why folks don't spend a couple hundred a year to Fluid Film the chassis I don't understand. You end up trashing a $50, 000 truck that should still be on the road, all to save a few hundred dollars. Penny wise and pound foolish as the British say.
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