I tried finding Hidden Gems on AliExpress AGAIN! (Part 11)
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Date: 2024-10-08
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Comments and reviews: 20
wolpumba4099
AliExpress Hidden Gems - Part 11: A Review of 6 Products
0: 00 Introduction: The video explores six products from AliExpress, testing their quality and functionality to determine if they are hidden gems.
1: 37 Metal Repair Glue (2. 7): While not a true welding replacement, the glue offers strong adhesion for general repairs and can be painted, polished, and drilled. Verdict: Thumbs Up
3: 45 Touch Sensor (3. 4): This sensor can be used behind materials like mirrors to activate devices, supporting up to 5A at 12V or 2. 5A at 24V with a maximum sensing distance of 25mm. Verdict: Thumbs Up
6: 12 Tweezer Soldering Station (37): Though effective for removing SMD components, the soldering station lacks precision and may damage components during removal. Verdict: Thumbs Down
8: 24 240W USB-C Display Adapter (2. 5): This adapter adds a power display to any USB-C cable and accurately measures power draw up to and beyond 100W. Verdict: Thumbs Up
10: 18 Mini Torque Wrench (62): A digital torque wrench with real-time, peak, and set modes, offering a good alternative to more expensive analog options, although it lacks a backlight. Verdict: Thumbs Up
12: 20 Laser Level (23): This digital laser level features a manual adjustment system and provides powerful laser lines. However, it lacks the auto-leveling feature found in pricier models and may not be as accurate. Verdict: Thumbs Down
14: 33 Conclusion: The video concludes by highlighting the successful products found in this exploration of AliExpress offerings.
I used gemini-1. 5-pro-exp-0827 on rocketrecap dot com to summarize the transcript.
Cost (if I didn't use the free tier): $0. 02
Input tokens: 16125
Output tokens: 420
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AliExpress Hidden Gems - Part 11: A Review of 6 Products
0: 00 Introduction: The video explores six products from AliExpress, testing their quality and functionality to determine if they are hidden gems.
1: 37 Metal Repair Glue (2. 7): While not a true welding replacement, the glue offers strong adhesion for general repairs and can be painted, polished, and drilled. Verdict: Thumbs Up
3: 45 Touch Sensor (3. 4): This sensor can be used behind materials like mirrors to activate devices, supporting up to 5A at 12V or 2. 5A at 24V with a maximum sensing distance of 25mm. Verdict: Thumbs Up
6: 12 Tweezer Soldering Station (37): Though effective for removing SMD components, the soldering station lacks precision and may damage components during removal. Verdict: Thumbs Down
8: 24 240W USB-C Display Adapter (2. 5): This adapter adds a power display to any USB-C cable and accurately measures power draw up to and beyond 100W. Verdict: Thumbs Up
10: 18 Mini Torque Wrench (62): A digital torque wrench with real-time, peak, and set modes, offering a good alternative to more expensive analog options, although it lacks a backlight. Verdict: Thumbs Up
12: 20 Laser Level (23): This digital laser level features a manual adjustment system and provides powerful laser lines. However, it lacks the auto-leveling feature found in pricier models and may not be as accurate. Verdict: Thumbs Down
14: 33 Conclusion: The video concludes by highlighting the successful products found in this exploration of AliExpress offerings.
I used gemini-1. 5-pro-exp-0827 on rocketrecap dot com to summarize the transcript.
Cost (if I didn't use the free tier): $0. 02
Input tokens: 16125
Output tokens: 420
reply
horrovac
IMPORTANT Info on the torque wrench: you have to take care of how you apply force to it. You can easily get FALSE readings if you are holding it wrong.
It is, essentially, just a standard ratchet, with a load cell glued to the shaft somewhere under the electronics case. Unlike the high-end (and expensive) electronic torque wrenches, which have the sensor placed in a way to minimise measurement error, this wrench simply measures the deflection of the wrench shaft. Of course, you can easily cause deflection of the shaft by trying to bend the wrench. I can easily get it to show a couple of Nm by simply bending it, without anything being attached to the square drive. Accordingly, you can cause false readings in use by gripping the handle too tight or holding the ratchet by the head.
If you take a look at the calibration sheet, it mentions something about measuring with the centre notch. On the handle, there is a notch in the middle of the handle: this is where you need to apply pressure to have it read right. I just hook 3 fingers around it, with the middle finger on the notch, and pull (without gripping the handle.
To conclude, it is ONLY accurate if you use it correctly. Fair enough, IMHO, for the price you shouldn't expect more. However, I wouldn't recommend it. I got it to complement or replace my mechanical torque wrench, and must say that it's rather cumbersome to use, the control interface is confusing and not intuitive, and the display is difficult to read under some conditions. Setting the mechanical wrench to desired torque and it's mechanical feedback are much easier to use.
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IMPORTANT Info on the torque wrench: you have to take care of how you apply force to it. You can easily get FALSE readings if you are holding it wrong.
It is, essentially, just a standard ratchet, with a load cell glued to the shaft somewhere under the electronics case. Unlike the high-end (and expensive) electronic torque wrenches, which have the sensor placed in a way to minimise measurement error, this wrench simply measures the deflection of the wrench shaft. Of course, you can easily cause deflection of the shaft by trying to bend the wrench. I can easily get it to show a couple of Nm by simply bending it, without anything being attached to the square drive. Accordingly, you can cause false readings in use by gripping the handle too tight or holding the ratchet by the head.
If you take a look at the calibration sheet, it mentions something about measuring with the centre notch. On the handle, there is a notch in the middle of the handle: this is where you need to apply pressure to have it read right. I just hook 3 fingers around it, with the middle finger on the notch, and pull (without gripping the handle.
To conclude, it is ONLY accurate if you use it correctly. Fair enough, IMHO, for the price you shouldn't expect more. However, I wouldn't recommend it. I got it to complement or replace my mechanical torque wrench, and must say that it's rather cumbersome to use, the control interface is confusing and not intuitive, and the display is difficult to read under some conditions. Setting the mechanical wrench to desired torque and it's mechanical feedback are much easier to use.
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greatscott
PD3. 1 is going to ONLY be useful for things like laptops(who struggle to sip little enough power to go under 100w as the standard is 20v and 5a is not enough at 20v)
it might be OK for things like large displays or projectors, but literally no small devices will use >20v as 100W is almost NEVER needed
I would love to have a pinecil that uses 48v 5a
the current implementation is limited to 20v 5a or less due to tip resistance, which granted is often around 60-80w for a tiny tip, but having a mega tip on my pinecil(mega version, big hands and big joints friendly) that can sip 240W in bursts would be so useful
beyond that 48v is tough to even justify, most buck regulators tend to get more expensive once you cross the 30v threshold(something to do with power supply safety testing I suspect)
get yourself a 100w PD3. 0 powerbank and be happy until most laptops ditch non-standard plugs and go 240w PD
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PD3. 1 is going to ONLY be useful for things like laptops(who struggle to sip little enough power to go under 100w as the standard is 20v and 5a is not enough at 20v)
it might be OK for things like large displays or projectors, but literally no small devices will use >20v as 100W is almost NEVER needed
I would love to have a pinecil that uses 48v 5a
the current implementation is limited to 20v 5a or less due to tip resistance, which granted is often around 60-80w for a tiny tip, but having a mega tip on my pinecil(mega version, big hands and big joints friendly) that can sip 240W in bursts would be so useful
beyond that 48v is tough to even justify, most buck regulators tend to get more expensive once you cross the 30v threshold(something to do with power supply safety testing I suspect)
get yourself a 100w PD3. 0 powerbank and be happy until most laptops ditch non-standard plugs and go 240w PD
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antibrevity
Not sure if it's common with brands in Germany, but lifetime warranties are fairly common with U. S. tool brands. This doesn't always indicate the highest quality, however, as it mainly means that the brand sees an acceptable number of warranty claims that help to market the brand with substantially impacting its finances; buyers like lifetime warranties and will thus prefer brands that offer them.
Even still, very cheap brands may not be able to afford such warranties as their claim rates may wipe out their profits. Tools with lifetime warranties thus tend to be of decent quality. Warranties are not really about quality, but about their marketing benefits versus the cost of claims.
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Not sure if it's common with brands in Germany, but lifetime warranties are fairly common with U. S. tool brands. This doesn't always indicate the highest quality, however, as it mainly means that the brand sees an acceptable number of warranty claims that help to market the brand with substantially impacting its finances; buyers like lifetime warranties and will thus prefer brands that offer them.
Even still, very cheap brands may not be able to afford such warranties as their claim rates may wipe out their profits. Tools with lifetime warranties thus tend to be of decent quality. Warranties are not really about quality, but about their marketing benefits versus the cost of claims.
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marcfruchtman9473
Thanks for the video. The no touch, wood penetrating switch sensor seems pretty cool.
I am not certain why you gave the level an inaccurate rating. if it matches the Spirit Level, it would just be accurate, but too cumbersome.
Welding melts the surface, and allows the two metals to join together, if you only add glue to the edge, but not the bottom contact faces, it won't do anywhere near as well as it could have. I doubt it will ever be as good as the weld, but, if you don't apply it properly it won't work anywhere near as well either. Please consider repeating the glue test by adding glue to the mating surface as well.
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Thanks for the video. The no touch, wood penetrating switch sensor seems pretty cool.
I am not certain why you gave the level an inaccurate rating. if it matches the Spirit Level, it would just be accurate, but too cumbersome.
Welding melts the surface, and allows the two metals to join together, if you only add glue to the edge, but not the bottom contact faces, it won't do anywhere near as well as it could have. I doubt it will ever be as good as the weld, but, if you don't apply it properly it won't work anywhere near as well either. Please consider repeating the glue test by adding glue to the mating surface as well.
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Robbedoes2
8: 00 I personally have the same opinion that tweezers mostly aren't worth it. I really like wave/hollow/flow tips. They are just like the bevel type, but concaved. With the tip you can access tricky spots with good thermal throughput, and with the small 'bath' of solder, you can reach over 0603 components with ease. Also, if you empty your 'bath', it wants to suck solder back. So you can remove solder without extra tools. This is especially useful when soldering large IC's, by simply brushing over the pins. Use enough flux and each pin gets a perfect solder bond.
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8: 00 I personally have the same opinion that tweezers mostly aren't worth it. I really like wave/hollow/flow tips. They are just like the bevel type, but concaved. With the tip you can access tricky spots with good thermal throughput, and with the small 'bath' of solder, you can reach over 0603 components with ease. Also, if you empty your 'bath', it wants to suck solder back. So you can remove solder without extra tools. This is especially useful when soldering large IC's, by simply brushing over the pins. Use enough flux and each pin gets a perfect solder bond.
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1ronman
The sound of ratchet in torque wrench has nothing to do with it's quality, rather number of teeth in it's mechanism, ratchets with less teeth sound more harsh, but they can withstand higher torque values, also they need to be turned to a bigger angle, which makes working in a tighter spaces harder, or even impossible. On the other hand ratchets with more teeth sound smoother and allow turning to a much smaller angles which makes them better for a tight spaces, but they can't whitstand as much torque as ones with less teeth in their mechanism.
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The sound of ratchet in torque wrench has nothing to do with it's quality, rather number of teeth in it's mechanism, ratchets with less teeth sound more harsh, but they can withstand higher torque values, also they need to be turned to a bigger angle, which makes working in a tighter spaces harder, or even impossible. On the other hand ratchets with more teeth sound smoother and allow turning to a much smaller angles which makes them better for a tight spaces, but they can't whitstand as much torque as ones with less teeth in their mechanism.
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ItsJust2SXTs
I have the same toque wrench, different brand not sure if that matter beacuae it's the same body, same diplay, same beeping, same quality, just orange. I use it on cars and so far it's reliable having 4 unit has been wonderfull working on american/korean cars none of them have the same unit and differ from bolt. I goes to 40lbs-ft, plenty for most small bolt after that I use the 1/2 2feet torque wrench click type up to 250lb-ft. I kind of comprare them when I got the small one and they were really close.
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I have the same toque wrench, different brand not sure if that matter beacuae it's the same body, same diplay, same beeping, same quality, just orange. I use it on cars and so far it's reliable having 4 unit has been wonderfull working on american/korean cars none of them have the same unit and differ from bolt. I goes to 40lbs-ft, plenty for most small bolt after that I use the 1/2 2feet torque wrench click type up to 250lb-ft. I kind of comprare them when I got the small one and they were really close.
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TheLoneWolfling
6: 00 - be careful. The limiting factor for most MOSFETs is _not_ the rated current per se - it's the junction temperature. Those max currents are usually essentially note that even if you somehow keep the junction temperature within limits, you _still_ shouldn't switch more than this current lest you potentially get local hotspots & thermal runaway.
Unfortunately, calculating if this is in spec for the FET is nontrivial for a PWM device, as it depends on the switching waveform.
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6: 00 - be careful. The limiting factor for most MOSFETs is _not_ the rated current per se - it's the junction temperature. Those max currents are usually essentially note that even if you somehow keep the junction temperature within limits, you _still_ shouldn't switch more than this current lest you potentially get local hotspots & thermal runaway.
Unfortunately, calculating if this is in spec for the FET is nontrivial for a PWM device, as it depends on the switching waveform.
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nimoy007
USB Test Engineer here, I wonder if that USB power meter has an e-marker chip inside. Such a chip is intended to communicate the capabilities of the cable to the host device. If it does, it could interfere with the e-marker inside the USB cable it is connected to and you could potentially exceed the rating for a given Type-C cable. All C cables are required to have the e-marker if they are USB 3. 0 or greater and/or more than 3A/60W capable.
I'm not sure I would recommend that device.
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USB Test Engineer here, I wonder if that USB power meter has an e-marker chip inside. Such a chip is intended to communicate the capabilities of the cable to the host device. If it does, it could interfere with the e-marker inside the USB cable it is connected to and you could potentially exceed the rating for a given Type-C cable. All C cables are required to have the e-marker if they are USB 3. 0 or greater and/or more than 3A/60W capable.
I'm not sure I would recommend that device.
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gvii
Yeah, that's just two part epoxy with powdered metal premixed(Or at least that's I believe it is, I've never bothered to look into too deeply as it just works) in the base component that makes it readily machinable. Common brand here in the US is JB Weld, and that's been around for nearly as long as I can remember. With proper preparation of the mating surfaces it can make a pretty strong join, but it's still nowhere near the strength of a welded or brazed join.
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Yeah, that's just two part epoxy with powdered metal premixed(Or at least that's I believe it is, I've never bothered to look into too deeply as it just works) in the base component that makes it readily machinable. Common brand here in the US is JB Weld, and that's been around for nearly as long as I can remember. With proper preparation of the mating surfaces it can make a pretty strong join, but it's still nowhere near the strength of a welded or brazed join.
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greatscott
For the people that don't use AliExpress this content is being lent on too much
IMO
Edit: For beginner welders - If you are starting to weld it is better to weld a bit too hot than a bit too cold
If you are getting welds like the ones seen here turning up the amperage may help beginners avoid sticking and getting low penetration & spotty welds
too hot is better than too cold for beginners
again IMO
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For the people that don't use AliExpress this content is being lent on too much
IMO
Edit: For beginner welders - If you are starting to weld it is better to weld a bit too hot than a bit too cold
If you are getting welds like the ones seen here turning up the amperage may help beginners avoid sticking and getting low penetration & spotty welds
too hot is better than too cold for beginners
again IMO
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TestSpaceMonkey
I've found the inline USB meters helpful on the go for troubleshooting charging issues with loose connections and worn cables.
The instant-on display provides better feedback when wiggling stuff to find a loose connection, current shows the approximate state of charge on things that don't have a display and voltage tells you if the setup is quickcharging properly when you're in a hurry.
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I've found the inline USB meters helpful on the go for troubleshooting charging issues with loose connections and worn cables.
The instant-on display provides better feedback when wiggling stuff to find a loose connection, current shows the approximate state of charge on things that don't have a display and voltage tells you if the setup is quickcharging properly when you're in a hurry.
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dickdickling9389
To be fair to the metal welding material, it says its filler for repairing holes and not a structural component.
Aliexpress naming is pretty much just tags, if you put together what makes the most sense it usually works fine for the intented pourpuse.
AB casting repair glue High temperature resistant liquid metal welding filler metal repair glue for metal casting defect
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To be fair to the metal welding material, it says its filler for repairing holes and not a structural component.
Aliexpress naming is pretty much just tags, if you put together what makes the most sense it usually works fine for the intented pourpuse.
AB casting repair glue High temperature resistant liquid metal welding filler metal repair glue for metal casting defect
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Nbec95
7: 14 from my experience with my yihua soldering station I can say that they often show that they reached the set temperature, but aren't really there in reality. Its more like they show a steady rise in temperature which doesn't match the actual temperature - at least not the temperature of the soldering tip and maybe the one of the heating element itself.
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7: 14 from my experience with my yihua soldering station I can say that they often show that they reached the set temperature, but aren't really there in reality. Its more like they show a steady rise in temperature which doesn't match the actual temperature - at least not the temperature of the soldering tip and maybe the one of the heating element itself.
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mrblc882
Autoleveling laser from store brand's like Lidl's Parkside are usually cheaper than this shit from Ali for simple table mounted ones and like 60 for little bit more serious ones with tripod. So even cheap in a pros is questionable because it's cheap compared to professional product, but not so cheap compared to budget solution available in regular store.
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Autoleveling laser from store brand's like Lidl's Parkside are usually cheaper than this shit from Ali for simple table mounted ones and like 60 for little bit more serious ones with tripod. So even cheap in a pros is questionable because it's cheap compared to professional product, but not so cheap compared to budget solution available in regular store.
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isaacnguyen6944
For the laser and the USB, I clicked on the link and was rewaed with astonishing low price. Then I signed in and suddenly the laser price was multiply buy 2 and the USB C was not available. I went to Banggood and the price of the laser was 2 more. So I ordered from them to give the 2 fingers (UK style) to Aliexpress!
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For the laser and the USB, I clicked on the link and was rewaed with astonishing low price. Then I signed in and suddenly the laser price was multiply buy 2 and the USB C was not available. I went to Banggood and the price of the laser was 2 more. So I ordered from them to give the 2 fingers (UK style) to Aliexpress!
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greatscott
hmm torque on connection bolts is not actually that critical, it can reduce the last few uOhms but at that point you are splitting hairs at >150A, your wire size becomes more critical at that range of current
I have a 24vdc 4kw invertor used at 500w average(oversized for durability and lack of stress and because
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hmm torque on connection bolts is not actually that critical, it can reduce the last few uOhms but at that point you are splitting hairs at >150A, your wire size becomes more critical at that range of current
I have a 24vdc 4kw invertor used at 500w average(oversized for durability and lack of stress and because
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asdfsdfsadfasdfsf
the glue is just metal powder mixed epoxy. its not as strong as welding but you need to do surface preparation with degrease, sanding, bla bla before. thats the must for any type of glue. so while its not optimal but you didnt use it right and make it seems too bad while it actually decent epoxy!
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the glue is just metal powder mixed epoxy. its not as strong as welding but you need to do surface preparation with degrease, sanding, bla bla before. thats the must for any type of glue. so while its not optimal but you didnt use it right and make it seems too bad while it actually decent epoxy!
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SianaGearz
The hot tweezer station looks good to recap some horrendous SMD electrolytic caps without stressing the board or the other components too much.
That epoxy seems surprisingly good, if you don't expect miracles out of it. I mean UHU makes its own metal epoxy, it's also a little thicker and heavier.
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The hot tweezer station looks good to recap some horrendous SMD electrolytic caps without stressing the board or the other components too much.
That epoxy seems surprisingly good, if you don't expect miracles out of it. I mean UHU makes its own metal epoxy, it's also a little thicker and heavier.
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