Ford F250 4x4 - Vacuum Hubs NOT Engaging
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Date: 2020-08-05
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Comments and reviews: 10
Buddy
I really enjoy watching your videos. You show things that can happen, we all forget steps sometimes! You get vehicles that other shops can't figure out and you go the extra mile to get it figured out! My hat is off to you! Another note. I've only seen one video of your New kitchen at your shop. Does Mrs O still make you those Healthy Meals? Lol. You are a Great Insperation to the auto repair industry. Thanks for Watching!
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I really enjoy watching your videos. You show things that can happen, we all forget steps sometimes! You get vehicles that other shops can't figure out and you go the extra mile to get it figured out! My hat is off to you! Another note. I've only seen one video of your New kitchen at your shop. Does Mrs O still make you those Healthy Meals? Lol. You are a Great Insperation to the auto repair industry. Thanks for Watching!
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Chris
I just replaced the ball joints and seals and hub. Use Moog ball joints or equivalent. Anyway I did not use a special tool to get the seals in, I used a 4 ABS pipe and a sledge for the big seal, not easy but got er done. I did see an interesting tip from the Ford 6. 0 guy (sorry do not recall his name) to put lube into the chamber of the wheel hub to make it last longer. Interesting idea. Thanks for the video.
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I just replaced the ball joints and seals and hub. Use Moog ball joints or equivalent. Anyway I did not use a special tool to get the seals in, I used a 4 ABS pipe and a sledge for the big seal, not easy but got er done. I did see an interesting tip from the Ford 6. 0 guy (sorry do not recall his name) to put lube into the chamber of the wheel hub to make it last longer. Interesting idea. Thanks for the video.
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Bryan
My Dad had an '87 S10, had a real bad out of balance driveshaft. Engineers from GM, came from Detroit to figure out why. After rebalancing and even replacing the driveshaft it still was bad. They eventually found out it was made wrong, and they replaced it with another new one. Months went by, craziness. My Dad still talks about this, this was about 20 yrs ago.
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My Dad had an '87 S10, had a real bad out of balance driveshaft. Engineers from GM, came from Detroit to figure out why. After rebalancing and even replacing the driveshaft it still was bad. They eventually found out it was made wrong, and they replaced it with another new one. Months went by, craziness. My Dad still talks about this, this was about 20 yrs ago.
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James
Eric, that was an awesome video. I have a 2005 Ford F350 Super Duty that won't shift into 4WD, thanks for the tips and troubleshooting. I feel that when you beat yourself up for not checking the vacuum on the drivers side that when you pinched the vacuum hose on the driver side and the passenger side vacuum didn't change, I feel that was a good test.
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Eric, that was an awesome video. I have a 2005 Ford F350 Super Duty that won't shift into 4WD, thanks for the tips and troubleshooting. I feel that when you beat yourself up for not checking the vacuum on the drivers side that when you pinched the vacuum hose on the driver side and the passenger side vacuum didn't change, I feel that was a good test.
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JOE
I have a 2001 f250 7. 3 diesel with lock and automatic hub too. My lock hub wouldn't disengage no more do I changed both with bearing and all. But I just noticed that the hub don't say automatic no more it now says FREE? how to know its their the same?
Thanks
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I have a 2001 f250 7. 3 diesel with lock and automatic hub too. My lock hub wouldn't disengage no more do I changed both with bearing and all. But I just noticed that the hub don't say automatic no more it now says FREE? how to know its their the same?
Thanks
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Mikeaaron777
Mark's F350 needed ball joints and we had to replace those seals. We had them replaced at a truck repair shop. Another problem with the vacuum system was the steel lines filling with rust. Drilled them open so vacuum could get to the hubs.
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Mark's F350 needed ball joints and we had to replace those seals. We had them replaced at a truck repair shop. Another problem with the vacuum system was the steel lines filling with rust. Drilled them open so vacuum could get to the hubs.
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st1300
The knuckle vacuum nipples are prone to corrosion and often the vacuum leak is right there where the rubber tube connects. Instead of paying 20 for a new nipple from an automotive shop, an SAE 7/16 brass plumbing nipple fits just fine.
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The knuckle vacuum nipples are prone to corrosion and often the vacuum leak is right there where the rubber tube connects. Instead of paying 20 for a new nipple from an automotive shop, an SAE 7/16 brass plumbing nipple fits just fine.
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Mariah
If you have the smoke machine, why waste all that time in the beginning? Why not just shoot smoke into each hub first thing to check them both to be certain, then shoot smoke down from the reservoir to check all the lines?
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If you have the smoke machine, why waste all that time in the beginning? Why not just shoot smoke into each hub first thing to check them both to be certain, then shoot smoke down from the reservoir to check all the lines?
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Ryan
It's a good idea to make sure both hubs actually disengage. Spinning the rear wheels only proves that the transfer case is disengaged. My truck had a habit of disengaging one of the hubs, but not the other.
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It's a good idea to make sure both hubs actually disengage. Spinning the rear wheels only proves that the transfer case is disengaged. My truck had a habit of disengaging one of the hubs, but not the other.
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Addddam21
I have a 2005 f250 6. 0, I have 3 buttons for 2wd/4wdh/4wdL, do all f250 trucks have that outer locking hub switch since my 4x4 is not working, basically manually lock the hub
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I have a 2005 f250 6. 0, I have 3 buttons for 2wd/4wdh/4wdL, do all f250 trucks have that outer locking hub switch since my 4x4 is not working, basically manually lock the hub
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