Instant 'Folding' Tiny Cabin with Skylight and Wood Burner
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Date: 2024-02-22
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Comments and reviews: 19
taoutdoors
TAOutdoors
I have some positive feedback and constructive criticisms.
First, great idea, I love it. Got my creative juices flowing for how to improve your experience with the project. It's your build so you do you. Keep in mind these suggestions are only what I would be doing to make it better.
1. Ditch acrylic entirely. It's trash. Use polycarbonate in your future builds. It'll get scratched to hell but it won't crack and break on you while drilling, cutting or bending (unless you're going too fast and hard with the power tools anyway. I have experience working with both and acrylic has always been a complete waste of money. Polycarbonate is durable a. f.
2. I'd place the latches (for the sides) on the inside of the board rather than the outside so your wood page can't be taken out by a random stranger passing through trying to mess with you. Just a personal preference.
3. Bicycle tires can easily be installed so you can wheel the entire pack through the woods vertically. Make it so the wheels can be quickly detached and stored underneath the floor when the build is deployed. One wheel may be all you need for this but two can offer more stability if you really need it and a spare in event of a flat. I'm not sure a flat would really even pose a problem for this anyway as you're not traveling at speed with it, you're just moving it on foot. I think it's less cumbersome to be able to move the build without need for additional tools like a wheelbarrow.
4. I see an immediate purpose for this build outside of the obvious camping or homeless shelter uses. You can easily build into this concept a tool rack inside the cabin when deployed. The tools in question would be stored in the underside area of the flooring and hung on the outside of the walls when deployed. The tools needed would be for gardening/farming, forestry and prairie management. Things such as axes and hoes or portable rip saw chains for downing branches. It can also be useful for mobile firefighting in instances where teams need to fight the fires in shifts over several days and be able to move camps rapidly. I definitely see the highest possible use being for a lumberjack collecting firewood in preparation for winter months. It offers a warm place to rest, mobility and a place to keep whatever you bring with you while you work. Still need to pull your food up into a tree at night though. I envision the use of this cabin to be for an entire season, rather than a weekend camping trip. So waterproofing against rain and morning dew is critical.
5. There are two ways to handle the fireplace/heating issue. First is a diy punk stove. You can cut down on weight with a punk stove, but it won't be as good as a cast iron cabin stove for heating purposes. You're definitely going to want to look at having floor vents under your stove to take in fresh oxygen so you don't get a draft from the edges of the build. You may also want to consider something like a pool noodle to cut insulation strips that fit in the edges where the boards come together. You want something to stop airflow into the cabin but not cut off oxygen to the stove. The vent is fine where you put it, I'm suggesting another one for the stove.
6. Cut the door down the center so the entry can be pushed open from the outside but locked from the inside with a 1x3 board. This will cut down on the space the door occupies when in use. It allows you to keep the door out of your way when coming in or going out. You'll need something to serve as a gasket so the door doesn't have a draft. Door should open inwards, not out (personal preference, makes it easier to secure and prevent someone messing with you from the outside. Window in the door should go above the door, not in the door (personal preference) so that when sitting you can see out of it without slumping or slouching.
7. I really like your wood slot mechanism and think you can double down on it with a version that allows you to also use that same panel later to secure the build so you no longer need the tie down straps to hold everything together. You'll figure out what I mean if you think about it. Use the same function as intended, just with different placements of the shorter panels in the same slot mechanism with improved dual function. You'll have to add more wood to make it possible. You'll also need reinforcement brackets so it doesn't give out during transportation. I think you can redesign the entire build to have storage even in the collapsed for storage state. With the right equipment, you should be able to also store a collapsible stove, dishes and cutware as well as a fire retardant blanket/ woobie. I really like the idea of the liftable roof for ventilation in hotter weather and to act as an air exchange. Keep to your original design concept where no tools are needed to deploy the cabin. But you should have a tool available for manually tightening up trouble areas where you get a loose screw or two.
8. Inside storage options should include Bungie cords or Paracord attached to eye hooks so you can hang clothes to dry, hang your sleeping bag or hang your trash and dishes/cutlery. You want a collapsible sink and water storage options.
9. You can lighten the entire build by using recycled HDPE melted into the panel sizes you need. It wouldn't hold up against the heat from the stove though, even with heat shielding. Plywood will hold up longer than the press board but if you're trying to save money go with 5 layer for the floor and three layer for the side walls and roof. You can also use a mold proof paint to further protect the wood from moisture and rot. You're gonna want to store this cabin in a dry place too, don't leave it outside to weather under the elements. You can get away with plastic bags over the roof but why settle for that when you can actually get the proper shingles and do it properly. I'd also consider mounting a solar panel instead of another roof for the side you want to replace the acrylic with. That's if you plan on having electronics with you anyway. You're probably better off with a stack of back up batteries instead. Definitely keep something with the cabin for rain water catchment to replenish water storage. You can also use that system to make an area you can hang out under outside.
Just my thoughts on the matter. I'm impressed with what you built and can't wait to see what else you come up with for improvements as well as seeing how this holds up under actual use.
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TAOutdoors
I have some positive feedback and constructive criticisms.
First, great idea, I love it. Got my creative juices flowing for how to improve your experience with the project. It's your build so you do you. Keep in mind these suggestions are only what I would be doing to make it better.
1. Ditch acrylic entirely. It's trash. Use polycarbonate in your future builds. It'll get scratched to hell but it won't crack and break on you while drilling, cutting or bending (unless you're going too fast and hard with the power tools anyway. I have experience working with both and acrylic has always been a complete waste of money. Polycarbonate is durable a. f.
2. I'd place the latches (for the sides) on the inside of the board rather than the outside so your wood page can't be taken out by a random stranger passing through trying to mess with you. Just a personal preference.
3. Bicycle tires can easily be installed so you can wheel the entire pack through the woods vertically. Make it so the wheels can be quickly detached and stored underneath the floor when the build is deployed. One wheel may be all you need for this but two can offer more stability if you really need it and a spare in event of a flat. I'm not sure a flat would really even pose a problem for this anyway as you're not traveling at speed with it, you're just moving it on foot. I think it's less cumbersome to be able to move the build without need for additional tools like a wheelbarrow.
4. I see an immediate purpose for this build outside of the obvious camping or homeless shelter uses. You can easily build into this concept a tool rack inside the cabin when deployed. The tools in question would be stored in the underside area of the flooring and hung on the outside of the walls when deployed. The tools needed would be for gardening/farming, forestry and prairie management. Things such as axes and hoes or portable rip saw chains for downing branches. It can also be useful for mobile firefighting in instances where teams need to fight the fires in shifts over several days and be able to move camps rapidly. I definitely see the highest possible use being for a lumberjack collecting firewood in preparation for winter months. It offers a warm place to rest, mobility and a place to keep whatever you bring with you while you work. Still need to pull your food up into a tree at night though. I envision the use of this cabin to be for an entire season, rather than a weekend camping trip. So waterproofing against rain and morning dew is critical.
5. There are two ways to handle the fireplace/heating issue. First is a diy punk stove. You can cut down on weight with a punk stove, but it won't be as good as a cast iron cabin stove for heating purposes. You're definitely going to want to look at having floor vents under your stove to take in fresh oxygen so you don't get a draft from the edges of the build. You may also want to consider something like a pool noodle to cut insulation strips that fit in the edges where the boards come together. You want something to stop airflow into the cabin but not cut off oxygen to the stove. The vent is fine where you put it, I'm suggesting another one for the stove.
6. Cut the door down the center so the entry can be pushed open from the outside but locked from the inside with a 1x3 board. This will cut down on the space the door occupies when in use. It allows you to keep the door out of your way when coming in or going out. You'll need something to serve as a gasket so the door doesn't have a draft. Door should open inwards, not out (personal preference, makes it easier to secure and prevent someone messing with you from the outside. Window in the door should go above the door, not in the door (personal preference) so that when sitting you can see out of it without slumping or slouching.
7. I really like your wood slot mechanism and think you can double down on it with a version that allows you to also use that same panel later to secure the build so you no longer need the tie down straps to hold everything together. You'll figure out what I mean if you think about it. Use the same function as intended, just with different placements of the shorter panels in the same slot mechanism with improved dual function. You'll have to add more wood to make it possible. You'll also need reinforcement brackets so it doesn't give out during transportation. I think you can redesign the entire build to have storage even in the collapsed for storage state. With the right equipment, you should be able to also store a collapsible stove, dishes and cutware as well as a fire retardant blanket/ woobie. I really like the idea of the liftable roof for ventilation in hotter weather and to act as an air exchange. Keep to your original design concept where no tools are needed to deploy the cabin. But you should have a tool available for manually tightening up trouble areas where you get a loose screw or two.
8. Inside storage options should include Bungie cords or Paracord attached to eye hooks so you can hang clothes to dry, hang your sleeping bag or hang your trash and dishes/cutlery. You want a collapsible sink and water storage options.
9. You can lighten the entire build by using recycled HDPE melted into the panel sizes you need. It wouldn't hold up against the heat from the stove though, even with heat shielding. Plywood will hold up longer than the press board but if you're trying to save money go with 5 layer for the floor and three layer for the side walls and roof. You can also use a mold proof paint to further protect the wood from moisture and rot. You're gonna want to store this cabin in a dry place too, don't leave it outside to weather under the elements. You can get away with plastic bags over the roof but why settle for that when you can actually get the proper shingles and do it properly. I'd also consider mounting a solar panel instead of another roof for the side you want to replace the acrylic with. That's if you plan on having electronics with you anyway. You're probably better off with a stack of back up batteries instead. Definitely keep something with the cabin for rain water catchment to replenish water storage. You can also use that system to make an area you can hang out under outside.
Just my thoughts on the matter. I'm impressed with what you built and can't wait to see what else you come up with for improvements as well as seeing how this holds up under actual use.
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mrhalfstep
Great idea and design! The only thing I would criticize is your choice for the sunroof. Acrylic sheet is more scratch resistant, but poly-carbonate sheet, think Lexan or bulletproof glass, is much more resistant to cracking. A falling widow maker could shower you with knife like plastic shards. It's also used for shooting glasses. Breaking before you even got into the woods could be seen as an omen.
In the future, if you want to lighten this design up, I think that you'll find that Lauan (over here, it's a thin plywood used as an underlayment for flooring) will be lighter and plenty strong, as well as nicer looking, but at a greater cost. Depends on your priorities. I, for instance, have much more money than I do strength and stamina!
Your final thoughts at the end of the video made me think. If you plan to prop open the wooden side of the roof, make the props such that the roof still has some pitch to let rain run off (You guys do get rain on that side of the pond, don't you) and you could staple a sheet of screen or mosquito netting over the opening to keep biting bugs out (If you tell me you don't have biting bugs over there in the spring and summer, you're gonna have a house guest come March, Mate. LOL
Great video!
reply
Great idea and design! The only thing I would criticize is your choice for the sunroof. Acrylic sheet is more scratch resistant, but poly-carbonate sheet, think Lexan or bulletproof glass, is much more resistant to cracking. A falling widow maker could shower you with knife like plastic shards. It's also used for shooting glasses. Breaking before you even got into the woods could be seen as an omen.
In the future, if you want to lighten this design up, I think that you'll find that Lauan (over here, it's a thin plywood used as an underlayment for flooring) will be lighter and plenty strong, as well as nicer looking, but at a greater cost. Depends on your priorities. I, for instance, have much more money than I do strength and stamina!
Your final thoughts at the end of the video made me think. If you plan to prop open the wooden side of the roof, make the props such that the roof still has some pitch to let rain run off (You guys do get rain on that side of the pond, don't you) and you could staple a sheet of screen or mosquito netting over the opening to keep biting bugs out (If you tell me you don't have biting bugs over there in the spring and summer, you're gonna have a house guest come March, Mate. LOL
Great video!
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verneolson1880
Mike, don’t feel bad that you didn’t get everything perfect the first time around. You took a concept and very successfully built a prototype. In the design process you always plan on 2 or 3 prototypes to get all the details right. The good news in your case is that you don’t have to start all over, you can just tweak the parts you feel need to be better. My tweak suggestions, another vent lower to floor and at the other end to get some cross flow, enamel paint over all the osb to protect it from moisture. Twinwall for the skylight, it’s a greenhouse industry product but big box stores might’ve carry it. All in all, a very successful first build; don’t stop till you get it the way you want it.
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Mike, don’t feel bad that you didn’t get everything perfect the first time around. You took a concept and very successfully built a prototype. In the design process you always plan on 2 or 3 prototypes to get all the details right. The good news in your case is that you don’t have to start all over, you can just tweak the parts you feel need to be better. My tweak suggestions, another vent lower to floor and at the other end to get some cross flow, enamel paint over all the osb to protect it from moisture. Twinwall for the skylight, it’s a greenhouse industry product but big box stores might’ve carry it. All in all, a very successful first build; don’t stop till you get it the way you want it.
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steveowens398
Hey Mike! The cabin is great. I'd suggest using small spacers to keep the aluminum plates off of the walls by half an inch or so - it wouldn't cost much or take up a lot of time, and would give the wood better protection from the heat of the stove. You might also want to add some eave extensions to the roof - I'm betting you'll get some rain in, one end or the other, through the gaps. You could use very light material for this, maybe even testing coverage with varnished cardboard clamped on as a test run. To keep your cabin flat packable, the eaves could be a removable item. Just a few thoughts to keep you even more safe and dry. Hope the test run goes well!
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Hey Mike! The cabin is great. I'd suggest using small spacers to keep the aluminum plates off of the walls by half an inch or so - it wouldn't cost much or take up a lot of time, and would give the wood better protection from the heat of the stove. You might also want to add some eave extensions to the roof - I'm betting you'll get some rain in, one end or the other, through the gaps. You could use very light material for this, maybe even testing coverage with varnished cardboard clamped on as a test run. To keep your cabin flat packable, the eaves could be a removable item. Just a few thoughts to keep you even more safe and dry. Hope the test run goes well!
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Mericles
I love things like this. As I was watching the build, it struck me that it's similar to the pre-fab homes that transform from a box on a trailer to a large home. To that end, maybe instead of the flat pack design, make a box. Each side could be two pieces hinged together, then made rigid unfolded with gate latches. Then slot them in place with the leg/hole system you have on your end pieces. When folded down, you'd have a box for the extra pieces. Could maybe even add wheels and handles so instead of carting it with a wheelbarrow, the cabin would BE the wheelbarrow. Would be easier to cart the woodstove this way. Plus food, bedding, lights and power.
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I love things like this. As I was watching the build, it struck me that it's similar to the pre-fab homes that transform from a box on a trailer to a large home. To that end, maybe instead of the flat pack design, make a box. Each side could be two pieces hinged together, then made rigid unfolded with gate latches. Then slot them in place with the leg/hole system you have on your end pieces. When folded down, you'd have a box for the extra pieces. Could maybe even add wheels and handles so instead of carting it with a wheelbarrow, the cabin would BE the wheelbarrow. Would be easier to cart the woodstove this way. Plus food, bedding, lights and power.
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TAOutdoors
Ok let me explain some things: This project had to tick off 3 things:
1 - It needed to be completely flat-packed and be able to fold down flat.
2 - It had to be light enough that it could be transported by hand on either a wheelbarrow or cart trolley (not a bicycle, that’s been done loads.
3 - It had to be made so that when you set it up in the woods, you don't need any power tools whatsoever to construct it. It could all be done by hand.
Fun project and looking forward to the overnight in it on the next episode!
reply
Ok let me explain some things: This project had to tick off 3 things:
1 - It needed to be completely flat-packed and be able to fold down flat.
2 - It had to be light enough that it could be transported by hand on either a wheelbarrow or cart trolley (not a bicycle, that’s been done loads.
3 - It had to be made so that when you set it up in the woods, you don't need any power tools whatsoever to construct it. It could all be done by hand.
Fun project and looking forward to the overnight in it on the next episode!
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m9ovich785
Great Prototyping Mike, I envision upgrades in the Future.
When and If You can get some Polycarbonate, use that for the Skylight. It is a softer material than Acrylic
It cuts and machines real nice. and is more durable than Acrylic
Oh, and by the way The B in OSB stands for Board. so You don't have to say OSB Board.
Instead of the Wheel barrow put wheels on the Base. one less item to deal with. tho the Wheel Barrow would be ok for Firewood.
Any thoughts about moving the Pallet Cabin
Thanks Much.
Mike M.
reply
Great Prototyping Mike, I envision upgrades in the Future.
When and If You can get some Polycarbonate, use that for the Skylight. It is a softer material than Acrylic
It cuts and machines real nice. and is more durable than Acrylic
Oh, and by the way The B in OSB stands for Board. so You don't have to say OSB Board.
Instead of the Wheel barrow put wheels on the Base. one less item to deal with. tho the Wheel Barrow would be ok for Firewood.
Any thoughts about moving the Pallet Cabin
Thanks Much.
Mike M.
reply
TAOutdoors
Ok let me explain some things: This project had to tick off 3 things:
1 - It needed to be completely flat-packed and be able to fold down flat.
2 - It had to be light enough that it could be transported by hand on either a wheelbarrow or cart trolley (not a bicycle, that’s been done loads.
3 - It had to be made so that when you set it up in the woods, you don't need any power tools whatsoever to construct it. It could all be done by hand.
Fun project and looking forward to the overnight in it on the next episode!
reply
Ok let me explain some things: This project had to tick off 3 things:
1 - It needed to be completely flat-packed and be able to fold down flat.
2 - It had to be light enough that it could be transported by hand on either a wheelbarrow or cart trolley (not a bicycle, that’s been done loads.
3 - It had to be made so that when you set it up in the woods, you don't need any power tools whatsoever to construct it. It could all be done by hand.
Fun project and looking forward to the overnight in it on the next episode!
reply
johngiesemann5293
Very interesting project. You could make it quite a bit lighter, maybe even light enough to carry in on your back, by using 2x2s and plastic board like that used for political signs. I think 2 sheets of plastic board for the floor would support your body weight. Also, a latch for the door that can be opened or closed from the inside/outside would make it more flexible for times of rain or extreme cold. Thank you for an interesting video.
reply
Very interesting project. You could make it quite a bit lighter, maybe even light enough to carry in on your back, by using 2x2s and plastic board like that used for political signs. I think 2 sheets of plastic board for the floor would support your body weight. Also, a latch for the door that can be opened or closed from the inside/outside would make it more flexible for times of rain or extreme cold. Thank you for an interesting video.
reply
recolored_crown
I like all my stuff to be as self-contained as possible, so I would put 2 decent rubber wheels on one end and a handle on the other. This way you don't need a wheelbarrow, but make sure to put the wheels somewhere like next to where the legs end up going, so that way when the thing is set up, they are off the ground, and out of the way, and adding some optional places to hook ankers to wouldn't be a bad idea, just in case.
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I like all my stuff to be as self-contained as possible, so I would put 2 decent rubber wheels on one end and a handle on the other. This way you don't need a wheelbarrow, but make sure to put the wheels somewhere like next to where the legs end up going, so that way when the thing is set up, they are off the ground, and out of the way, and adding some optional places to hook ankers to wouldn't be a bad idea, just in case.
reply
marksoutta1059
Well done Mike thats a great idea and project. So it's basically a tent made out of wood.
When i buy a wood I was planning on just using a tent for a while but now i might build a quick simple structure like yours instead.
One thing i might add to the design is 2 barrow type wheels to one end and maybe handles to the other then you can push or pull the whole thing making the flat pack the trolley.
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Well done Mike thats a great idea and project. So it's basically a tent made out of wood.
When i buy a wood I was planning on just using a tent for a while but now i might build a quick simple structure like yours instead.
One thing i might add to the design is 2 barrow type wheels to one end and maybe handles to the other then you can push or pull the whole thing making the flat pack the trolley.
reply
taoutdoors
I want to design a traveling foldout camper trailer that can be pulled by a bicycle since I don't drive. I love seeing all of the people who have decided to move into buses and cans and travel through as much of their life as possible, vut that lifestyle is inaccessible to those who dont or xant drive. I also thought it would be helpful for those who are unsheltered. This gave me great ideas, so thank you.
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I want to design a traveling foldout camper trailer that can be pulled by a bicycle since I don't drive. I love seeing all of the people who have decided to move into buses and cans and travel through as much of their life as possible, vut that lifestyle is inaccessible to those who dont or xant drive. I also thought it would be helpful for those who are unsheltered. This gave me great ideas, so thank you.
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VaticansHolocaust
OSB is horribly susceptible to disintegrating from getting wet. I recommend using weather treated siding that’s used for constructing sheds. An origami structure is possible using French hinges spanning the length of every folding edge. The entire structure would be rigid and fold into one flat packageAlso, a simple frame around the roof’s edges would make the acrylic skylight much more robust.
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OSB is horribly susceptible to disintegrating from getting wet. I recommend using weather treated siding that’s used for constructing sheds. An origami structure is possible using French hinges spanning the length of every folding edge. The entire structure would be rigid and fold into one flat packageAlso, a simple frame around the roof’s edges would make the acrylic skylight much more robust.
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MrDorz1994
Hi TA, Cool video. As with the hinges on the ends you could use the same principle you did for the 2nd long side, just raise it a little bit on a board so it goes a bit higher, the system you got for joining at the corners would still function the same way. With the top hinges on the acrylic side, you could add some rubber washers on the hinges to protect and lower the strain on the sheet.
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Hi TA, Cool video. As with the hinges on the ends you could use the same principle you did for the 2nd long side, just raise it a little bit on a board so it goes a bit higher, the system you got for joining at the corners would still function the same way. With the top hinges on the acrylic side, you could add some rubber washers on the hinges to protect and lower the strain on the sheet.
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FineAndAndy
For the see-through part of the roof, you could use a clear plastic sheet. (I mean a not-hard plastic sheet, maybe called something like a polyethylene drop cloth Or plastic tarp There are a few names, I hope it's clear what I'm talking about) It would weigh less, be less fragile, and you can use tie-outs to extend it at any angle and to give yourself a covered area outside the cabin.
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For the see-through part of the roof, you could use a clear plastic sheet. (I mean a not-hard plastic sheet, maybe called something like a polyethylene drop cloth Or plastic tarp There are a few names, I hope it's clear what I'm talking about) It would weigh less, be less fragile, and you can use tie-outs to extend it at any angle and to give yourself a covered area outside the cabin.
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RossEphgrave
Great video Adam. Is that OSB weather proof If not you might want to give the exterior a coat of spar varnish. Why not replace the broken acrylic section with wood Did you try putting tape down on the acrylic where you want to drill Not sure if that would help with cracking. love your design. Can't wait to see how it evolves in the future. Take care, from across the pond.
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Great video Adam. Is that OSB weather proof If not you might want to give the exterior a coat of spar varnish. Why not replace the broken acrylic section with wood Did you try putting tape down on the acrylic where you want to drill Not sure if that would help with cracking. love your design. Can't wait to see how it evolves in the future. Take care, from across the pond.
reply
80krauser
A relative of ours builds a similar type structure for use as deer hunting blinds on his hunting leases.
But they are a bit bigger, sturdier and he uses screws to secure it. Since it is semi-permanent and sits up in the humid Louisiana woods for months even years at a time.
It packs down on to a four wheel ATV trailer. Not as neatly as yours but pretty similar
reply
A relative of ours builds a similar type structure for use as deer hunting blinds on his hunting leases.
But they are a bit bigger, sturdier and he uses screws to secure it. Since it is semi-permanent and sits up in the humid Louisiana woods for months even years at a time.
It packs down on to a four wheel ATV trailer. Not as neatly as yours but pretty similar
reply
Hephera
you had the right idea adding that bit of wood along the side to raise up the hinges of the second wall so it would lie flat over the first wall. to get the ends to also fold flat you just needed to do that again for each of them, going slightly taller each time so that each subsequent wall has hinges that clear the thickness of the previous wall when its folded down
reply
you had the right idea adding that bit of wood along the side to raise up the hinges of the second wall so it would lie flat over the first wall. to get the ends to also fold flat you just needed to do that again for each of them, going slightly taller each time so that each subsequent wall has hinges that clear the thickness of the previous wall when its folded down
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taoutdoors
I have one suggestion for you mate, that is weatherstripping on at least one edge of the walls, so that air infiltration at the corners would be eliminated. And one other thing would be put the sunroof section of the roof should be put into a wooden roof section with the central area of the acrylic this protecting the edges of the acrylic and giving better seal
reply
I have one suggestion for you mate, that is weatherstripping on at least one edge of the walls, so that air infiltration at the corners would be eliminated. And one other thing would be put the sunroof section of the roof should be put into a wooden roof section with the central area of the acrylic this protecting the edges of the acrylic and giving better seal
reply
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