A Hot Chevy With Nothing To Keep It Cool
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Date: 2022-10-05
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Comments and reviews: 13
Will
I'm lazy, so I would not have pumped that whole engine's cooling jacket and radiator full of air. I would have just put 100% water in it. Sometimes, depending on where the leak is. it might have already run out of leakable coolant, so adding is needed.
The last place I worked, as a fleet mechanic, was crazy for transmission flushes, so it did those every 30k miles. Those cheap line quick connects are not meant to be taken apart and put together a lot. I always used to hate getting hit with hot ATF. All of the detergent made me itch for the rest of the shift, also smelling like hot puke was not great.
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I'm lazy, so I would not have pumped that whole engine's cooling jacket and radiator full of air. I would have just put 100% water in it. Sometimes, depending on where the leak is. it might have already run out of leakable coolant, so adding is needed.
The last place I worked, as a fleet mechanic, was crazy for transmission flushes, so it did those every 30k miles. Those cheap line quick connects are not meant to be taken apart and put together a lot. I always used to hate getting hit with hot ATF. All of the detergent made me itch for the rest of the shift, also smelling like hot puke was not great.
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Bruce
Years ago while changing a thermostat, I had the tab on one of those constant pressure clamps break off just as I got the hose back on. It held just fine so I was lucky, I thought. A couple of years later the upper hose split and I limping to a parts store and got a hose and a couple of new clamps. The fun then started to try to remove the old clamp. Two hours later and much cussing, I was able to split the hose and pull it out piece by piece until the clamp slipped off. If you remove or replace a hose, change out those damned constant pressure clamps.
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Years ago while changing a thermostat, I had the tab on one of those constant pressure clamps break off just as I got the hose back on. It held just fine so I was lucky, I thought. A couple of years later the upper hose split and I limping to a parts store and got a hose and a couple of new clamps. The fun then started to try to remove the old clamp. Two hours later and much cussing, I was able to split the hose and pull it out piece by piece until the clamp slipped off. If you remove or replace a hose, change out those damned constant pressure clamps.
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OcRefrigeration
Good vid! I Have those same Clamps on My 1999 Dodge Ram Diesel Radiator. I Had a New Radiator put in it a While back / maybe a few years ago & the guy Did NOT Use New Clamps. Are Those Clamps reliable or Do you Think i Should Pop for Some Super de-luxe New Marine Rated Screw clamps. I m in California. I m Thinking 23 years is Wayyy over due for New Hose Clamps! Everything is pretty much original under the hood except for radiator & water pump & belt & Batterys ( I replace every 4 years ) religiously. 207, 000 miles on truck.
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Good vid! I Have those same Clamps on My 1999 Dodge Ram Diesel Radiator. I Had a New Radiator put in it a While back / maybe a few years ago & the guy Did NOT Use New Clamps. Are Those Clamps reliable or Do you Think i Should Pop for Some Super de-luxe New Marine Rated Screw clamps. I m in California. I m Thinking 23 years is Wayyy over due for New Hose Clamps! Everything is pretty much original under the hood except for radiator & water pump & belt & Batterys ( I replace every 4 years ) religiously. 207, 000 miles on truck.
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Mark
Thumbs up. QUESTION: My 5. 3 runs a little over 210, and holds there, rain snow or shine. Noticed this was a little under. (2004 Tahoe Z-71, fully loaded) all factory, if that helps (proper coolant levels, coolant, no leaks) Did you just not warm this one up completely, or should I be looking for something wrong? Edit: Belt fan, coolant nice and clean, no crud on the radiator for blockages. No radiator fluid in the catch can or the stick. 179, 000 miles, no leaks whatsoever, runs like a top.
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Thumbs up. QUESTION: My 5. 3 runs a little over 210, and holds there, rain snow or shine. Noticed this was a little under. (2004 Tahoe Z-71, fully loaded) all factory, if that helps (proper coolant levels, coolant, no leaks) Did you just not warm this one up completely, or should I be looking for something wrong? Edit: Belt fan, coolant nice and clean, no crud on the radiator for blockages. No radiator fluid in the catch can or the stick. 179, 000 miles, no leaks whatsoever, runs like a top.
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4x4Scout
Phobia of dodges. That cracked me up. I got my phobia from trying to remove the starter from an old dodge Cordoba, slant 6, outside, in the rain, in a sandpit, on a car with 1-2 inches of greasy grimy crud built up on everything around that starter and that side of the engine. Couldn't even find the bolts till we scraped crud for 30 minutes. Of course then we were laying in wet sand and greasy crud. I've had a dislike for Dodge stuff ever since.
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Phobia of dodges. That cracked me up. I got my phobia from trying to remove the starter from an old dodge Cordoba, slant 6, outside, in the rain, in a sandpit, on a car with 1-2 inches of greasy grimy crud built up on everything around that starter and that side of the engine. Couldn't even find the bolts till we scraped crud for 30 minutes. Of course then we were laying in wet sand and greasy crud. I've had a dislike for Dodge stuff ever since.
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Waddah
Thank you for this video. I have a chevy tahoe that one day was heating up while stopping at a traffic light but the temperature goes to normal as soon as i drive. When i checked it was the coolant level was low. So i topped it up. However every month or so i see the level of coolant drops down in the resevoir and i see no leak whatsoever. What do you advise to check here in this case?
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Thank you for this video. I have a chevy tahoe that one day was heating up while stopping at a traffic light but the temperature goes to normal as soon as i drive. When i checked it was the coolant level was low. So i topped it up. However every month or so i see the level of coolant drops down in the resevoir and i see no leak whatsoever. What do you advise to check here in this case?
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4x4Scout
How's this for profound. When putting a new radiator hose on with worm drive clamps. Take it for a short drive just enough to get the coolant hot. Then tighten all those worm drive clamps. The hose rubber gets soft when it gets hot. If you don't retighten them there is a good chance they will blow off the first time it gets really hot and goes full pressure. Ask me how I know.
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How's this for profound. When putting a new radiator hose on with worm drive clamps. Take it for a short drive just enough to get the coolant hot. Then tighten all those worm drive clamps. The hose rubber gets soft when it gets hot. If you don't retighten them there is a good chance they will blow off the first time it gets really hot and goes full pressure. Ask me how I know.
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Pavel
Doesn't seem like it did the trick this time, but those hose clamp pliers are a nifty tool to have with those factory hose clamps. I was able to change out all the hoses on my 09 Fusionator but only since I had that tool. I am pretty sure one of your other videos introduced me to that great tool. I like even the simple videos you make, always a wealth of knowledge you project!
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Doesn't seem like it did the trick this time, but those hose clamp pliers are a nifty tool to have with those factory hose clamps. I was able to change out all the hoses on my 09 Fusionator but only since I had that tool. I am pretty sure one of your other videos introduced me to that great tool. I like even the simple videos you make, always a wealth of knowledge you project!
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Will
I appreciate the simple repairs as much as the more complex, multi-meter clamp jobs.
The is someone out there who might have the same issue or just want a preventive maintenance video like this where a few dollars in clamps can save them thousands in dollars they dont have, so on behalf of those who do repairs for cost saving or just personal satisfaction, Thanks!
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I appreciate the simple repairs as much as the more complex, multi-meter clamp jobs.
The is someone out there who might have the same issue or just want a preventive maintenance video like this where a few dollars in clamps can save them thousands in dollars they dont have, so on behalf of those who do repairs for cost saving or just personal satisfaction, Thanks!
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Carl
I like those kind of clamps. They work better than the strap or screw down type. I never have seen one break like yours did on that truck. Didn't know they would do that. I have had the strap type leak at the upper hose and radiator junction. When I replaced it with original GM spring type I never had a problem again.
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I like those kind of clamps. They work better than the strap or screw down type. I never have seen one break like yours did on that truck. Didn't know they would do that. I have had the strap type leak at the upper hose and radiator junction. When I replaced it with original GM spring type I never had a problem again.
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Barry
Ha I love how everyone says they are gonna change their clamps now. The spring type oem clamps def work better. Worm drive clamps come loose over time and may need to be re-tightened periodically. Now I will use them if the clamp has rusted out. But never make it a point to change clamps unless a clamp is leaky
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Ha I love how everyone says they are gonna change their clamps now. The spring type oem clamps def work better. Worm drive clamps come loose over time and may need to be re-tightened periodically. Now I will use them if the clamp has rusted out. But never make it a point to change clamps unless a clamp is leaky
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adam0U812
Back in 04, I bought a brand new GMC 2500
It has the fuel efficient 6. 0.
Went to drive it to work and had no heat, parked it and found the bottom rad hose clamp came off in 2 pieces. The stealership wouldn't even give me new coolant. Don't buy anything from the stealership in schererville, IN.
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Back in 04, I bought a brand new GMC 2500
It has the fuel efficient 6. 0.
Went to drive it to work and had no heat, parked it and found the bottom rad hose clamp came off in 2 pieces. The stealership wouldn't even give me new coolant. Don't buy anything from the stealership in schererville, IN.
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Jim
That repair was easy for someone who ha 2 foot long pry bars and screw drivers. Doing that in the driveway with normal tools from underneath would have been painful and messy. It makes you wonder about these customers who don't even check the radiator for an over heating problem. Great work as always, Eric.
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That repair was easy for someone who ha 2 foot long pry bars and screw drivers. Doing that in the driveway with normal tools from underneath would have been painful and messy. It makes you wonder about these customers who don't even check the radiator for an over heating problem. Great work as always, Eric.
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