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zakruti.com » Auto & Vehicles » South Main Auto Repair
2019 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport No Crank - Battery Light On - Towed In Diagnosis

2019 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport No Crank - Battery Light On - Towed In Diagnosis

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Rating: 4.0; Vote: 1
2019 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport No Crank - Battery Light On - Towed In Diagnosis Channel video: South Main Auto Repair - Category: Auto & Vehicles
Date: 2025-12-23

Comments and reviews: 20


I have had at least 6 batteries in my life that I shut off the vehicle a hour later went to start it stone dead. Use to happen when it got cold out 30 years ago. Today they take a dump just before summer. One time in my van charge it and when I went to start it KBOOM. Acid all over. Another time at the drags in my vette drove it up to the stating lanes shut it off when my lane was next went to start it dead as a door nail. No lights or anything in the car a guy wanted to give me a jump start told him no way. In a 1971 vette the battery was behind the front seat in a fiberglass box in the floor with a cover on it. If it went KBOOM in there would blow a lot of vette apart. Took the battery out took it to my trailer were it showed zero. Took the battery from my van but it in the vette started right up and drove it up on the trailer. Then took it out and put it back van to get home. What a pain in the ass. At the drags you would hear about 3 KBOOM a day. I knew what that was. Left the van and trailer in the barn that night next day drove it out unhooked the trailer went and got a new battery for the vette so I could get it off the trailer. Never know when a battery well go bad. Had one go bad after 2 weeks. They can't even make good battery today.
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I have replaced enough batteries for customers, family, and myself that if it's a 3 year battery I replace it between 2 1/2 and 3 years. If it's a 5 year battery I replace it between 4 1/2 and 5 years if they last that long. Also if they age out in fall or early summer I change at the earliest. I don't know why but a weak battery doesn't like the extreme temp changes. I don't like battery surprises when I am on a mission. I also had a 88 Ford truck that kept blowing head light bulbs. I replaced each side a couple of times in less than a year. Charging voltage stayed within 13 and 14 volts. Took a trip to Georgia. Started the truck in the morning then at noon tried to go to lunch and the battery was completely dead. Installed a new battery and for the next 6 years I never blew a head light again. Just one brake light bulb. I have no idea what the science is behind it or if it was just coincidence.
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It is a rare occurrence, but I have seen a battery just drop off and die before. A year or two ago, I had a 2017 Focus ST that I drove to the store, and about two hours after I got home it was completely dead. It was about 70 to 80 degrees outside; there was no battery light or any other kind of red flags. I got in to leave and hit the start button, the only thing that happened was my speedo gauge began to twitch, and all of the interior lights shut off. I checked the terminals, and all were tight. I did a voltage test, and the battery barely had any charge at all, I could also smell sulfur pretty heavy around the battery. In 40 plus years of working on cars I had never seen that before or since. Thanks for another great video.
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Heat is really bad for batteries. I am from MA and now live in GA and every 3 years I just pull and replace my battery regardless of how it tests out because of previous battery failures occurring after 3 yrs of use. I also do a lot of short distance driving so that adds to my issues so from time to time I have to take the car on a longer distance drive. Heck I even have to change my tires more frequently not because of tread wear but when I see they start dry rotting and the cracks appear. Only good thing here is no salt issues to rot out the car or pot holes, but we have hail and tornado's so no matter where you live there is always something to take out a vehicle.
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My Buick Lucerne quit on my daughter the other day at school. The battery was bad, and the alternator. I replaced the battery with a new one and a junkyard alternator and all seems well, but it is charging at over 15V! Like 15. 2, typically. Should I be concerned The service manual said it was in range, but I have been replacing bulbs like crazy on the car. If I pull the control connector on the alternator it will drop to high 13's, and set the battery light on. I was shocked to see that the voltage that high is allowable in the manual. Power goes up as a square of the voltage, so I'm sure those bulbs are running on the edge. no wonder they're popping.
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Probably a shorted cell or two on the battery. Saw it once when my neighbor had his Nissan Rogue. Wouldn't start one morning, I jumped it with my Forester. As soon as we disconnected the leads it stalled. So jumped it again. The second time I heard a dinging in my cab, looked, and my car's battery light was on.
Left it running for a bit before disconnecting. Lasted about 15 seconds and it stalled again. I got my multimeter out, measured its voltage. 9 volts exactly. Which lead me to believe that one cell was shorted out.
He bought a new battery, and it worked fine until he hit a deer a year or two later and totalled it.

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I would say the current IN and OUT of the battery are the same thing and it isn't actually supplying power any more once the system voltage rises above 13 (or whatever the battery has on it's own. Above that point, the alternator has taken over and the battery becomes just another consumer, same as all the other electrical devices on the vehicle. If there's 80A at the alternator cable and 12A on the battery negative, then there's 68A being supplied to the fuse boxes. That 68A has it's own ground path back to the alternator and that's why you don't see it at the battery - it's not a case of stuff cancelling each other out.
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Neighbor has a Chevy truck. 2015. Asked me about his truck not starting. He could jump it off. It would be fine for a day or two. The charger would even read it was charging. Being I already ran into shorted battery. Told him to take the battery to O'Reilly's and have them test it. Had a cell shorting. I hate it when you run into this, because they can blow up in your face. I learned to cover the battery with a piece of wood. It's not a pretty site. Lady brought her car in. She said she heard a loud bang under her hood. Had to be running on the alternator. Battery top was in peices. Acid ever where.
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Yesterday my son called and said his car wouldn’t start. With a jump pack I couldn’t even hear the solenoid clicking. But the battery was only putting out 12v, so I figured it was cooked. I took him to get a new battery. Battery installed, push the started button and nothing. He forgot he didn’t have his key fob. With key fob in pocket, push the button and still nothing. I noticed his shift lever wasn’t looking right. I had him push on the shifter and then the car started and ran normally. That may have been the only issue but the battery was old and he probably needed a new one anyway. ,
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when you put the load on and wondered about the 17A you have a misunderstanding. the 17A is what is still going in the battery. The rest what the car need is going out of the alternator and takes another route to a distribution box or something. The battery is acting as a buffer to the electric system, it is not that all the curent the come out the alternaot actually goes through the battery. If the alternator can handle all that load at idle and still charge the battery, it is a perfect alternator which is also perfectly sized
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On the topic of changing batteries. I changed the battery of my wife's 2018 Ford Escape. After the battery change the Automatic Start/Stop feature worked - prior to this that feature had been locked out or made non-functional (by the dealer. we don't like that auto start/stop. How do I turn it off permanently (as opposed to each time I start the car and have to push the little circled A button) If you can do it -- I hope I can do it.
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I am so happy you went back and torqued all that misc. stuff to factory specs. I knew a guy who just guessed at it and was off by 11 ft. lbs. The battery came loose, fell out, he ran over it and the car exploded, putting him in the hospital. While he was incapacitated his son joined a satanist cult, his daughter became a prostitute and his wife ran off with a tow truck driver. He is out of the hospital now but is still paralysed from the ears up.
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Hey Eric: Why don't people treat their batteries like their tires You replace tires Before they wear out. Batteries are good for about 5 years in normal use. I replace mine every five years. (I keep my cars till they're used up. only on my 3rd in 26 years. If you are a working person a no start could cause you to miss a day's work (and pay) and also cost you a tow. More than the cost of a battery. just say'in.
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Loved it, Eric. A plausible scenario for sudden failure is as follows. If the battery was performing poorly, due to sulfation or some other issue, and the voltage was extremely low due to a long drive with the headlights on or something, then it was exposed to severe cold. Cells may have frozen and jacked the plates into a shorted, or open condition. Low state of charge allows the electrolyte to. Freeze
.

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2019 with the OG battery THAT is impressive. with 129K on it.
That said, what's really sad is that even if he knew it was the battery and replaced it, he still needed you. to program the BMS. WORST THING EVER! When I replaced the battery (12VDC AGM) in my Fusion Hybrid (2016, the battery light and confuser screamed at me until I paid a guy to set the BMS for the new battery. What BS!

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Eric, you didn’t even mention or check for a parasitic electrical load which could be the reason why the battery was completely dead. You had a 1. 5a draw at one point (drivers door open, and could have let the electronics go to sleep and checked the off-state battery drain. In my personal experience, batteries don’t go to zero volts unless there is a significant (>250mA) current draw.
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Great video! I saw that Mr Eric O applied some sort of anti-corrosion grease directly to the terminals of the new battery. Would this be dielectric grease or some other type that is conductive I've always thought you apply the dielectric grease to the outside of the terminals. I could be totally wrong, but I figure someone here might know. And I always learn something from his videos!
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Never toss a video. There is always something to pick up from your videos no matter how silly you think they are. The owner of that car sure needed this video. If they constantly had to jump the car to start it, there's a chance they parked it for a few days. Since the thermometer has basically been in the basement, the battery may have frozen and finished its death throws.
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Sounds like the original battery may have developed one or more shorted cells. If the cells are shorted then the battery will draw substantially more current from the charging system due to the overvoltage applied to the remaining functional cells. If the alternator or ECU senses this as an overload, it may shut off alternator output and trigger the battery light.
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They don't make batteries like they used to. My Silverado battery was dead after sitting 10 days while I was out of town. I jumped it, checked alternator output which was good. After a full charge I checked parasitic draw. Was well within accepted level. Load test proved a bad battery. Manufacture date tag was 10 months old, it had been in use 8 months.
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